Today was an odd day...I sold a bunch of stuff via Facebook groups, did absolutely no work on the car and made some phone calls about parts. I called up Wolfsburg West today to inquire about the early vent felt trims - they told me that they're about a month away from being available. The manufacturer is in Germany and they've been out of stock on them for a long time. Given that the long/wide trim I bought from WW is damn near perfect, I'm expecting that the vent trims will be of similar quality.
On a suggestion of a fellow early Type 3 owner, I ordered up the vent trims from ISP West...they have no pictures of the actual product so I'm highly skeptical that they'll be anything other than the Brazilian trims but I'm open to being surprised. If they work, then I'll install them and get the WW parts for the restoration. If they don't work - I'll just wait until the WW pieces are available and work on other stuff on the car...like finding that groaning noise in the rear end. At the rate I've been going, it'll take me a couple of weeks to get that sorted and then the vent pieces won't be that far off. I also have those bus scrapers to swap onto the window trims.
Most of the parts that I bought for the headlight conversion to H4 and headlight buckets/trim have been sold off so I've recovered almost all of the money I put into that adventure. Always nice when I can recover money that was spent chasing something that didn't work out. I still have to aim the headlights - and potentially - buy new lenses for the headlights. I suspect that part of my aiming problem is due to the optics of the glass lenses and that the fluting on the glass isn't compatible with the LED bulbs. I may try to find some clear glass lenses to fit to them if they're not crazy expensive.
Thursday, November 30, 2017
Wednesday, November 29, 2017
Holding me like gravity are places that pull
I've been advised that ISP has the proper felt trim and that it works...my plan, for now, is to call WW and find out the ETA for their felt. If it's a ways off, I'll roll the dice with ISP. At some point, I'm going to need this thing to have functional windows...I need to get some miles on this engine for break in and it's going to take forfuckingever if I do it 5 miles at a time.
I'd rather not install and remove the door trim five times if I can help it...but the ability to roll the window up and down is kind of the deciding factor about whether or not I have to do it again.
I'm still on the fence about pulling the outer scraper rubber but since I have the Type 2 scrapers I bought from Wolfsburg West, I may just try to install them. I discovered today that I can use aluminum pop rivets and then smash them flat in the vise.
The passenger's side door got cleaned and primed with red oxide paint. Depending on how it sticks, I plan to top coat with a red rattle can paint and then apply sound deadening once the majority of the guts are in the door. I put it in first on the driver's side and it got a little fucked up when I installed the window channel and vent window.
I still have the weird groaning to chase down in the rear of the car. The camber compensator is off the car so that's not it...I'm going to back the parking brake cables off completely to eliminate them...then I'll have to dig into each wheel assembly until I find the source of the noise. Below is a video of the last test drive I did in the car - I start the video at about the five minute mark as I'm driving through a parking lot and it's pretty easy to hear the groaning. I don't know if it happens at higher speed because of the engine noise. Either way, I need to figure out what it is and eliminate it.
Tuesday, November 28, 2017
Thought without learning is perilous
Starting with the air cleaners...
The car still doesn't start on the first key turn but it seems to run fine. I may take it to the local shop and have them look it over to make sure everything is in order.
There is an odd 'rubbing' sound coming from the rear of the car. I think it's a stuck caliper on the rear brakes - if I had to guess.
Bought a filter wrench as well because I didn't have one - I used Channel Locks to remove the original filter.
I also started looking at the CSP Python exhaust...too expensive though. I have to figure out how to get this Vintage Speed exhaust to work the way it should. There is some welding work in the future of this exhaust.
This was the lesson for today...keep an eye on part numbers!
The one other thing I accomplished today was to remove the camber compensator. And the rear wheels have settled a little bit. I may try to install the longer bar in a couple of weeks.
Sunday, November 26, 2017
Carburetor adjustment - attempt #1
The video is way long but the engine sounds better, there's more power and it doesn't reek in the car anymore. All positives.
I don't think the carburetors are dumping fuel into the engine - if they are it's very subtle. I've hovered over the engine after shut down to see/smell and nothing stands out the last couple of times.
Next up after the idle fix is shortening the air filter studs and an oil change then I'll get back on the door building.
I am also going to remove the bar on the camber compensator - I think it's causing the current wheel tuck situation...removing it will let me know for sure.
Saturday, November 25, 2017
Parts for later
Most of these parts are for later...I snagged the torsion covers because they were available. Seems like one of those parts that is harder to find than expected.
I did some late night reading up on how to tune the Webers so I'm going to give that a go tomorrow and hope I remember/do it properly. I'll probably save the window build for Monday so that when I go into a swearing tirade the little dude will be at school.
Friday, November 24, 2017
Tweaking the carbs
I reset the idle stops to initial set up (1/2 turn in after contacting the stop) and got the linkage to be as equal as possible. Turns out that was 80% of the issue...which was a lucky break.
The left side is flowing better than the right side. The #4 cylinder is at 6. Due to the location of the port for #3 - I couldn't get a reading. I need to get a hose or something to allow me to read it.
Not a bad start for 30 minutes of work - I have to figure out how to get a reading on #3 and then work out how to bring up the 1-2 side without having a high idle.
Once this is all worked out I'll change the oil and swap back to working on the doors.
There is fuel in the oil again after running the engine for about 15 minutes. The strongest odor is coming from the left side carburetor (also closest to the T in the fuel line). I'm guessing that the electric fuel pump retains too much residual pressure at shut down and the pressure is relieved via dumping fuel into the carburetor. If this is, indeed, the case, I'll pull the electric fuel pump and install a mechanical fuel pump because I don't want my garage to smell like a fuel spill every time I drive the car.
I drove the car a short distance (a mile, round trip) to the subdivision pool parking lot to adjust the headlights. In spite of the 'not quite' sync on the carbs, it drives MUCH better than it did with the clones. They've got a slight whistle - typical indication that they're not synced quite right. They're close...
I am excited just thinking about how much nicer it'll be to drive once they're adjusted properly.
The LED headlights are nice and bright - needs a little more adjustment but there's no crazy glare to oncoming traffic.
Wednesday, November 22, 2017
I was able to turn it over and get the car started but it runs real rough and backfires a bit. Given that I know jack shit about carb tuning, I've got a lot to learn so that I can get these running right. I had a phone conversation with the engine builder today about some things to check/adjust first. I also found a 'carb set up' guide that I'm going to refer to when I make an attempt on Friday.
So far, the only modification I know I'll have to make is remove and trim the air cleaner studs - they're too long for the RamFlo filters. I'm going to wait until I've got everything dialed in before I do that though.
I took a very short video of the initial start up - it's below. I'm getting closer!
Tuesday, November 21, 2017
LED headlights are finished
This is the unmodified P45t adapter before I shaved off some of the side bit to make this contraption work.
The first modification was done using a 4" grinder - it got the part hot and did more melting than grinding.
When I modified the second one today - I used a bastard file - much faster, cleaner and straighter.
Another up side is that I get to keep the city lights in the 3 bolt headlights.
Toward the effort, I was able to get the carburetors mostly installed. I cannot get to the two inner nuts on the 3/4 side to properly tighten them. These Webers are larger in body than the AA clones. I'll have to find a curved wrench before I can finish the install. I tried to make my own from a cheap 13mm box wrench but my torch doesn't get hot enough and I just broke the wrench. Once that wrench arrives, I'll be able to finish up the installation...maybe while everyone is wiped out from Black Friday shopping, I'll be able to go out and drive around a bit.
Sunday, November 19, 2017
P45t adapter with LED headlight
The adapters are well made and fit nicely in the housing.
To make sure I didn't go off all half-cocked and make unnecessary modifications - I taped the LED bulb to the back of the housing and mounted it to the headlight bucket - it fits without any drama. So the issue is either with the P45t adapters (plastic bits), the H4 adapters for the LED bulbs or the metal bulb caps. I've looked at the assembly a few times and believe it's either the H4 adapters (tangs are too long) or the P45t adapters (plastic interference with metal bulb cap).
Follow up EDIT: After some additional monkeying around - it turns out that both the P45t adapter and the LED bulb adapter require modification. The LED bulb modification requires that the tangs are near flush with the P45t adapter (and they're still good to go in the H4 housings after modification) and the P45t adapters have to be shaved a bit with an razor blade to allow the cap to interlock with the housing. I did get one to fit. If I get time later this week - I'll get the other one done and test them out.
I'll call this a draw until I get a little further into it.
Saturday, November 18, 2017
Building the crate for the roof rack
We covered all of the rails with water pipe insulation and taped it in place.
I've got plenty going on so I don't think this will slow me down any.
I traded the early Nutria ashtray that I had for a rebuilt late fuel pump today.
The parts book material sold so it also got packed up for shipping on Monday.
I think this is my list of things to do so far:
* Test fit P45t adapters with LED bulbs in 3 bolt headlight housings
* Install Weber carbs
* Finish building driver's side door
* Build passenger's side door (if the driver's side goes well) - mitigate rust, top coat with paint, etc.
* Hook up the safety relay for the fuel pump (if everything else is good to go)
* Change the oil
* Put the rubber floor mats back in the car
* Finish printing supplements for Parts book
One day at a time...
Friday, November 17, 2017
Release and rebuild
Early in the afternoon, the window trims arrived, along with the felt strip clips. They're three days early (due on Monday) so I figured I'd get started on the driver's side door. The window trims are not great but they're far better than what I removed in terms of rubber and dents. The construction is mediocre but it'll work for now.
The plan is to completely build up the driver's side door before starting on the passenger's side door (which I promptly ignored by installing the door lock mechanism). The passenger's side door is going to take more work to get it right due to the rust so I figured I'd toss myself a bone by doing the easy door first.
I test fit the felt strip in the wind wing channel - that's going to suck a little bit because the felt strip is wider than the channel and it compresses down to a slot that's too thin for the glass.
These two are soaking in Fluid Film - I'll clean them out one more time before putting them away. The benefit of storing them with Fluid Film is that it doesn't turn into crusty wax...so using them later won't be a chore.
I'm also going to test the little film that's supposed to reduce the 'blue' effect of the LED bulb to a more 'natural' color suitable to a classic car while providing brighter light.
I've had about all of the scanning and printing I can handle. The reason I put this off for three years became abundantly clear about half way into the process. I'm looking forward to the end of this project.
The glass tubes for the LED bulbs arrived today as well (it was a good day for packages!) so that chapter is closed as well.
Speaking of 'new homes', I sold the roof rack today...so I'll be building another crate to ship it to California next week.
The replacement carburetors arrive tomorrow afternoon - I have a lot of work on the board now and I'm hoping to be able to drive the car again in a few days.
Thursday, November 16, 2017
Parts book progress
I took the plunge yesterday and signed up for a month to month subscription to Adobe DC so I could clean up and edit the .pdf version of the parts book that I've been scanning over the last few weeks.
The whole book was scanned, cleaned up, made searchable and organized. There are a few pages of the book that are still not as clean as I'd like but it's pretty close without Photoshop (which I don't have).
The new outer window trims should arrive by the end of the week. Once I get those installed, the rest of the driver's side door should go back together pretty quickly. My plan is to use the new window channels and keep the removed parts for future powder coating. Recycling old/used for better/used or refurbished parts.
At this point, I'm waiting for my back to heal a bit and parts to arrive so that I can get the doors back together, lights finished and the engine back to where it should be once the carburetors are installed.
Tuesday, November 14, 2017
Finding all of the loose ends so I can tie them all together
The crate will be here until shipping is worked out - it's actually now being used as a table where I store parts for the door rebuild.
After a short period of non-communication, the seller of the LED kit has indicated that they've shipped the missing piece. That part should arrive on Thursday and I can get into the installation. The P45t - H4 adapters should arrive within a week. I might be able to get closure to this small project soon.
I sold the NOS rear seat cover to a guy with a super stock car - sad to see NOS parts leave but the ones that won't be installed on my car are just very slowly wasting away so they might as well be sold to those who will use them to improve their cars, right?
The Weber clones were shipped back and delivered yesterday - the engine builder communicated that the real Webers will be shipped out tomorrow and I should have them by the end of the week.
The door building process will be pretty good for the driver's side once the new trims arrive. I found NOS door locks for the restoration so I'll use my good used parts to replace the super janky passenger's side door lock to get the car back on the road. I'm going to work out a solution for the rust situation on the passenger's side so I can get the door back together. I may try to use the new insulation I bought a while back but I have to get past the rust bit first.
I haven't yet figured out a solution to the wind wing broken welds...which will slip into requiring new wing seals...and if I'm going to do one, I might as well do the other one too. Well, shit. At least I have the parts.
Not much will happen over the next couple of days - I'm on a medically required break for two days.
Monday, November 13, 2017
Passenger's side door deconstruction
The gap between the fender and the door when the door is opening is a clue that something ain't quite right with this door.
The rust is a bummer for sure...the odds of finding another 64 door in good shape without rust are slim. If I were to look for a door, I'd also try to find one with a mirror hole (this one doesn't have one). The other option is to keep the doors from the 65 and have them worked to fix the dents...guess I'll have to dig in and figure out just how bad the rust is on this door.
Manually manipulating it is like nails on a chalkboard - scratchy, shrill and made the hair on the back of my neck stand up. I'm going to try to clean it and lubricate it - if that fails I'll pull out one of my spares.
It looks like I'll be able to rebuild the driver's side door and maybe be able to fix the passenger's side door (for now) but a long term solution revolves around a replacement passenger's side door (or using the doors from the 65).
Sunday, November 12, 2017
NOS rear fender crate and headlights
This is the initial frame with the fenders to make sure it's the correct size.
The fenders are going to ultimately wind up on Ferris - he'll have three of the four fenders be NOS parts unless the 4th fender is found soon.
This is the LED light side - gives the car sort of a 'dead' look to it
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